This is the first of several musings about frames and chassis on my truck. If nothing else, it might help me put things into perspective while trying to figure out what's the best way to go for this big looming repair.
When I bought the truck, now 7 years ago, the rear crossmember was rotten to pieces. Within a month or so of buying it I had a new repair crossmember with the usual frame horns and took it in for welding. For $300 the welder did a half-ass job, but it was pretty solid – just didn't look very nice. And its lasted, except for now the two front bulkhead outriggers are totally shot, and the two crossmembers under the engine and transmission look like swiss cheese. All of this is generally repairable, however, looking in at the left side outrigger, you can also see a fist sized hole in the main frame rail itself. I think its time the frame gets some attention.
Now, like most Rover nuts, I have a list of prospective repairs and customizations, some of which are more important than others. Up until now, the frame has been pretty-much out of site, out of mind. All the smaller things on the list are now done, and three big items remain: overdrive, diesel powerplant (preferably turbo), and new frame.
So several options present themselves...
1. Buy a new galvanized 88" frame from one of the local importers, which appeals only from its shiny cleanness, but really would empty my wallet. I haven't asked for a specific quote, but I'd be surprised if it cost me less than $3000 just for the frame, as of course i'd do the fitting myself. My Scottish heritage forces me to look at alternatives to this route. I'm too cheap!
2. Buy a used or refurbished 88" frame. I've only come across one of these and I'm going to take a look this week. Might be worthwhile and likely about a third of the value of a new galvanized unit.
3. Buy a used or refurbished 109" frame. there seems to be more 109" frames floating around, including a used galvanized one up at Martyns. This is a wee bit appealing, if I could get a good deal on a decent rear tub as then I'd have the larger storage space of the 109. On the down side is I'd have to redo my canvas top, and I may also find the overhang gets in the way in the bush.
4. None of these options, however, furthers the causes of diesel power or an overdrive, so the idea of perhaps finding a wrecked defender 90 piques my interest as well. There are a number of reasons why this could be a less than perfect solution, not the least of which is the fact that the rear tub is 4" longer on the 90, so there could be alot of fiddling to fit everything correctly. However it's an option worth considering because the wreck I'm looking at not only has a healthy frame, but also has both a 2.5 diesel and a 5 speed gearbox, and all for a fair bit less than buying each item separately. Can't tell you the exact price because I haven't made a deal yet.
I'm going to look at the refurbished 88" frame this week, and chew on the whole thing a bit more before deciding which is the best way to go. But its definitely one of those decisions that has advantages and disadvantages no matter what choice I make.
If money was no object I'd buy Aart's 88" coiler galvanized frame, and a 300Tdi, and matching 5 speed, and a Roverdrive to boot. But money is an object as at this time I can still likely recoup my investment – but not my labour – if I was to sell it. Throwing a ton of money at it to do all those improvements isn't likely to pay for itself.
Oh, I'm getting a headache!
